Hobbies Trains

Model railroading is a great hobby for the entire family! If you’re new to model trains, the best place to start is with a complete set. Once you have yours, have everyone help set up the track, then take turns running the train. You can add to the fun at anytime with more track, different locomotives and cars as well as accessories.

When it comes to selecting sets for kids, here are some things to keep in mind. An adult should supervise and help set up any train set — unless noted, all sets are electrically powered, and most include small parts. All sets are recommended for children ages 8 and over. Always read and follow the instructions that come with the set.

Model Train Scale

It’s important to choose a train set that’s the right size for the age of the child. Sets come in several different sizes, called scales. Each is known by an alphabetical name, or by size. From largest to smallest, popular scales include:

• G Scale Trains – 1/22
• O Scale Trains – 1/48
• On30 – 1/48 (O Scale Train models using 30″ Narrow Gauge Track)
• S Scale Trains – 1/64
• HO Scale Model Trains – 1/87
• N Scale Model Trains – 1/160
• Z Scale Trains – 1/220

About Train Scale

G Scale Trains

Proportion 1:22.5
Big models, sometimes called “Large Scale” trains. Sizes range from 1/22.5 to 1/25 and also include #1 gauge (1/32 Scale) equipment. The largest electrically powered models, starter sets can be used in small areas. Some brands can be used outdoors. The large size of many G Scale trains allows for rugged handling by younger children. Many models have working parts that enhance play value.

O Scale Trains

Proportion 1:48
(also On30, O27)
If you grew up with Lionel trains, you’ll remember that they were O Scale models. Ruggedly built, modern O Scale is a good choice for youngsters or permanent layouts and many sets feature animated accessories. Traditional sizes include “O27″ (the number 27 refers to the 27″ diameter of a full circle of track) sets that feature tighter curves, making them a good choice where space for bigger trains is limited. Another recent addition is “On30” Scale, which are O Scale models running on a narrower track just 30 scale inches wide, that’s also ideal for Christmas Villages.

S Scale Trains

Proportion 1:64
S Scale trains appeared in the 1950s (American Flyer was one of several popular brands) as houses grew smaller. Its chief advantage was size; larger than HO for more detail and improved reliability, but smaller than O Scale so less room was needed for a layout. Today, the selection of kits and assembled items is small, but this has made S Scale popular with modelers who enjoy the challenges of scratchbuilding and kitbashing.

HO Scale Model Trains

Proportion 1:87
“HO” means “half – o;” models are half the size of O Scale. HO is the most popular scale with the greatest selection of sets and accessories, as it allows lots of railroad action in a small area. Children may need adult help to set up or take down the set.

N Scale Model Trains

Proportion 1:160
This scale is an ideal choice for apartments or anyone with limited space. N Scale trains are easy to store when not in use and are ruggedly built for trouble-free operation. The small size is fine for teenagers and adults; younger children will need an adult to help to set up or take down a set.

Z Scale Trains

Proportion 1:220
Z scale was developed in by Märklin in the early 1970s, and is the smallest of all the working models — so tiny that a little layout will even fit in a briefcase! Most Z trains and equipment are based on European railways.

Accessories

Starter sets typically include a powered locomotive, cars, track and power pack.

LOCOMOTIVES pull the train. Sets may come with modern diesels or old-time steam engines. Most have working headlights. Some steam locos even make smoke. Large Scale steam locomotives sometimes have chug and/or whistle sounds.

TRACK sets come with separate pieces of straight and curved track to build an oval. Some include a special piece called a switch or turnout, to move trains on to another track. Many sets include a special section called a rerailer, which has an insert between the rails that aligns the wheels of the cars and locomotive, making it easy to put them on the track. Sets may also come with track sections connected by small, formed metal pieces called rail joiners. Others use special track systems designed for easy snap-together assembly. Matching sections of track for both types are sold separately to enlarge the basic oval.

COUPLERS are mounted on the ends of cars and locomotives; they keep the train connected. Simply push cars together gently and the couplers connect. A standard style is used with each size (scale) of train. Many sets now include equipment with knuckle-shaped couplers that look like clasped hands — this style holds more securely. Couplers are often mounted on the bottom of the car, helping to keep the wheels on the tracks.

POWER PACKS (electrically powered controllers) let you speed up, slow down or stop your locomotive, and run it forward or backward. Most packs have two sets of connections on the back — one set powers the trains, the other runs electrically powered accessories. Virtually all power packs in use today are UL listed, indicating they have passed tests to meet specific safety requirements. Most come with a built-in protective device that shuts off the power pack if there’s an electrical problem. All power packs must be plugged in to a wall socket. This should be done by an adult, or with adult supervision. Specific instructions for using the power pack are included with sets.

Other Resources

You can find a lot of great information about model railroading on the Web. There are various magazines and books that focus on model railroading for beginners. If possible, make your first stop at a local hobby shop or attend a local train show. Many of these folks are lifelong model train enthusiasts who will be happy to help with your questions.

Content here was provided by Walthers. For more info, please visit walthers.com.

If you’ve thought about building a model train layout, but you’re not quite sure where to start, this video series by Model Railroader Magazine will show you the way. Each video clip is short, and all of them together will take you about an hour to watch. Enjoy!

The Rest of the How To Build a Model Train Layout Series:

WGH Video Scene 2 Benchwork Part 1

WGH Video Scene 3 Benchwork Part 2

WGH Video Scene 4 Laying Track

WGH Video Scene 5 Control

WGH Video Scene 6 Structures

WGH Video Scene 7 Scenery Part 1

WGH Video Scene 8 Scenery Part 2

WGH Video Scene 9 Conclusion

Airbrushing? The very sound of that word throws many hobbyists into cardiac arrest. I have heard people say “I could never learn to use an airbrush” or “An airbrush is too expensive, so I just use spray cans.” Well, I am here to tell you that anyone can use an airbrush and it is not as expensive as one might think. Airbrushes are extremely useful tools and greatly enhance the finish of models.

As a model railroader and professional model builder, I have used airbrushes for about 25 years, in all kinds of situations. My first set-up was on my open patio. I had to paint in the spring/summertime and could not paint on windy days. I did custom painting for hire with this set-up for five years and obtained very good results. In my present situation, I have a professional paint booth. This is very convenient and allows year-round painting with the airbrushes hooked up at all times.

I have people asking me all the time “What type of airbrush should I buy for model painting?” There are many types and styles of airbrushes and you really want one that you will be comfortable using. There are generally four types of airbrushes as follows:

• External Mix-Single Action
• External Mix-Double Action
• Internal Mix-Single Action
• Internal Mix-Double Action

External Mix – paint and air mixture is performed outside the airbrush body.

Internal Mix – paint and air mixture is performed inside the airbrush body.

Single Action -The airbrush trigger controls only airflow.

Double Action -The airbrush trigger controls both airflow and paint flow.

I personally use both an external mix-single action and an internal mix-single action for the majority of my model painting. These airbrushes allow you to preset the paint flow and then just spray. You will find that if you paint a lot, as I do, the single action does not fatigue your trigger finger as readily as a double action. I also use an internal mix-double action for most of my weathering effects. Once learned, a double action airbrush will give you very fine control to do very realistic weathering effects. Internal mix airbrushes tend to atomize the paint more sufficiently, which I have found gives a little smoother finish. However, once learned, I think that you can get great results from any of the above-mentioned airbrushes. External mix is a little easier to clean than an internal mix.

I have used many different brands of airbrushes, and I am presently using the Iwata Eclipse series. I have a HP-SA Single Action and a HP-CS Gravity Feed-Double Action. The HP-SA I use for general painting and the HP-CS I use for weathering effects. I also like the Paasche H series airbrush for general painting. I have found these to be the most well balanced airbrushes with the paint cup/jar attached. The better balance an airbrush has, the better results you will get. You don’t want to be fighting your equipment. I also like the fact that these airbrushes are the easiest to clean. And cleaning your airbrush is extremely important to insure that it last for years.

The Iwata airbrushes have a unique feature, which I really like. The needle does not protrude from the front of the nozzle. So, if you bump the front of the brush or drop the brush as I too frequently do, the needle is protected from damage. It is very important that the needle remains straight and centered in the nozzle of the airbrush.

My intention with this series is to give information on what works for me and to, hopefully, help you avoid some of the pitfalls that I have experienced. I intend to discuss airbrush equipment, paints, mixing, cleaning, weathering and any other items that come to mind that pertain to airbrushing model railroad equipment. The techniques and equipment I use are not exclusive to model railroading, though. If you have specific questions or ideas for something you would like to see in this series, please feel free to drop me a note. I am always happy to discuss this hobby of ours. Until next time!

Written by Lee A. Yeager and reprinted with permission of ARTtalk.com and Iwata-Medea Co.