Author Archive

Mentor, Ohio – The Western Reserve Model Railroad Museum has lost much of its funding and is appealing to the general public for donations to keep its 18,000 square foot facility open.

The museum is the largest of its kind in the world. It features 26 different scales of trains. The smallest train will fit in the palm of your hand. The largest is available for children to ride in.
For more information (CLICK HERE)

The Battle-Gaming of Massachusetts club for teens meets on Saturdays at the Hamilton-Wenham Public Library.

For More Information – Click Here!

Pinewood Derby Season is upon us.

One Hobby Manufacturer, Woodland Scenics, introduced a new product from their “Pine Car” product line at this year’s iHobby Expo that might be useful to scouts building their cars this year.  As you know getting the precise weight for your car is important.

Check out this video to see what they have to offer.

Giant taffeta and bamboo kites ring in the New Year in Baguio City, Philippines. Brightly colored and measuring 22-feet long and 11-feet wide, with 45-foot long tails, these kites symbolize joy, hope and peace.

It’s a family activity, beginning with the creation of the kites right through to the kite flying.

Read more about this peaceful celebration: In Baguio, kite greets ’09.

According to the USPS website, the 1993 Elvis stamp was the most popular stamp ever collected, with more than 124 million saved by 2006. “Stamp collecting continues as one of the world’s most popular educational hobbies that the entire family can enjoy,” said Postmaster General John E. Potter.

While it’s nice to delve into the history and seriousness of some of the issues on a stamp, it’s perfectly acceptable to be entertained by them as well. Some of the more popular stamps over the years:

• DC Comics Super Heroes, 2006
• Lucille Ball, 2001
• Marilyn Monroe, 1995
• Jim Henson: Muppets, 2005
• Bugs Bunny, 1997
• Legends of Baseball, 2000
• Summer Olympics, 1992

Take some time today to share the memories of these entertaining icons you may have stored up in a stamp. Philately brings us together over an album, or table cover to “remember when.” It’s quite possible that your kids have learned something in school they can share with you, or that you might have to straighten them out about! Maybe it’s time to “Shake, Rattle, and Roll.”

Take some time to enjoy educational hobbies with your children every day. They won’t forget the time you spend teaching them how to put together a collection or referring to it when you, or they, peak interest in a new stamp.

Philately goes unnoticed by many, but remains loved by those who see the beauty of a tiny moment, frozen in history.

Learn more about stamp collecting at http://www.usps.com or visit your local hobby store to find convenient equipment and supplies for storing your new or existing stamp collection.

Image Credit: the collector 2 by Lamerie on flickr

This easy to follow, how-to video shows how to measure, mix, and pour a silicone rubber mold for resin casting.

Model railroading is a great hobby for the entire family! If you’re new to model trains, the best place to start is with a complete set. Once you have yours, have everyone help set up the track, then take turns running the train. You can add to the fun at anytime with more track, different locomotives and cars as well as accessories.

When it comes to selecting sets for kids, here are some things to keep in mind. An adult should supervise and help set up any train set — unless noted, all sets are electrically powered, and most include small parts. All sets are recommended for children ages 8 and over. Always read and follow the instructions that come with the set.

Model Train Scale

It’s important to choose a train set that’s the right size for the age of the child. Sets come in several different sizes, called scales. Each is known by an alphabetical name, or by size. From largest to smallest, popular scales include:

• G Scale Trains – 1/22
• O Scale Trains – 1/48
• On30 – 1/48 (O Scale Train models using 30″ Narrow Gauge Track)
• S Scale Trains – 1/64
• HO Scale Model Trains – 1/87
• N Scale Model Trains – 1/160
• Z Scale Trains – 1/220

About Train Scale

G Scale Trains

Proportion 1:22.5
Big models, sometimes called “Large Scale” trains. Sizes range from 1/22.5 to 1/25 and also include #1 gauge (1/32 Scale) equipment. The largest electrically powered models, starter sets can be used in small areas. Some brands can be used outdoors. The large size of many G Scale trains allows for rugged handling by younger children. Many models have working parts that enhance play value.

O Scale Trains

Proportion 1:48
(also On30, O27)
If you grew up with Lionel trains, you’ll remember that they were O Scale models. Ruggedly built, modern O Scale is a good choice for youngsters or permanent layouts and many sets feature animated accessories. Traditional sizes include “O27″ (the number 27 refers to the 27″ diameter of a full circle of track) sets that feature tighter curves, making them a good choice where space for bigger trains is limited. Another recent addition is “On30” Scale, which are O Scale models running on a narrower track just 30 scale inches wide, that’s also ideal for Christmas Villages.

S Scale Trains

Proportion 1:64
S Scale trains appeared in the 1950s (American Flyer was one of several popular brands) as houses grew smaller. Its chief advantage was size; larger than HO for more detail and improved reliability, but smaller than O Scale so less room was needed for a layout. Today, the selection of kits and assembled items is small, but this has made S Scale popular with modelers who enjoy the challenges of scratchbuilding and kitbashing.

HO Scale Model Trains

Proportion 1:87
“HO” means “half – o;” models are half the size of O Scale. HO is the most popular scale with the greatest selection of sets and accessories, as it allows lots of railroad action in a small area. Children may need adult help to set up or take down the set.

N Scale Model Trains

Proportion 1:160
This scale is an ideal choice for apartments or anyone with limited space. N Scale trains are easy to store when not in use and are ruggedly built for trouble-free operation. The small size is fine for teenagers and adults; younger children will need an adult to help to set up or take down a set.

Z Scale Trains

Proportion 1:220
Z scale was developed in by Märklin in the early 1970s, and is the smallest of all the working models — so tiny that a little layout will even fit in a briefcase! Most Z trains and equipment are based on European railways.

Accessories

Starter sets typically include a powered locomotive, cars, track and power pack.

LOCOMOTIVES pull the train. Sets may come with modern diesels or old-time steam engines. Most have working headlights. Some steam locos even make smoke. Large Scale steam locomotives sometimes have chug and/or whistle sounds.

TRACK sets come with separate pieces of straight and curved track to build an oval. Some include a special piece called a switch or turnout, to move trains on to another track. Many sets include a special section called a rerailer, which has an insert between the rails that aligns the wheels of the cars and locomotive, making it easy to put them on the track. Sets may also come with track sections connected by small, formed metal pieces called rail joiners. Others use special track systems designed for easy snap-together assembly. Matching sections of track for both types are sold separately to enlarge the basic oval.

COUPLERS are mounted on the ends of cars and locomotives; they keep the train connected. Simply push cars together gently and the couplers connect. A standard style is used with each size (scale) of train. Many sets now include equipment with knuckle-shaped couplers that look like clasped hands — this style holds more securely. Couplers are often mounted on the bottom of the car, helping to keep the wheels on the tracks.

POWER PACKS (electrically powered controllers) let you speed up, slow down or stop your locomotive, and run it forward or backward. Most packs have two sets of connections on the back — one set powers the trains, the other runs electrically powered accessories. Virtually all power packs in use today are UL listed, indicating they have passed tests to meet specific safety requirements. Most come with a built-in protective device that shuts off the power pack if there’s an electrical problem. All power packs must be plugged in to a wall socket. This should be done by an adult, or with adult supervision. Specific instructions for using the power pack are included with sets.

Other Resources

You can find a lot of great information about model railroading on the Web. There are various magazines and books that focus on model railroading for beginners. If possible, make your first stop at a local hobby shop or attend a local train show. Many of these folks are lifelong model train enthusiasts who will be happy to help with your questions.

Content here was provided by Walthers. For more info, please visit walthers.com.

If you’ve thought about building a model train layout, but you’re not quite sure where to start, this video series by Model Railroader Magazine will show you the way. Each video clip is short, and all of them together will take you about an hour to watch. Enjoy!

The Rest of the How To Build a Model Train Layout Series:

WGH Video Scene 2 Benchwork Part 1

WGH Video Scene 3 Benchwork Part 2

WGH Video Scene 4 Laying Track

WGH Video Scene 5 Control

WGH Video Scene 6 Structures

WGH Video Scene 7 Scenery Part 1

WGH Video Scene 8 Scenery Part 2

WGH Video Scene 9 Conclusion

Over the years I have acquired an arsenal of tried and true tools for applying acrylic paint. One of my most versatile and indispensable is the airbrush. It has helped me to bridge the gap between acrylic and oil, allowing me to create smooth gradations and soft edges without blending wet-in-wet.

Early in my career, I was confronted with condescending remarks regarding airbrush use. I got the impression some artists felt that using this tool somehow constituted cheating. Do you use airbrush? This question fell into the same category as “Did you trace that?” Since those early years I have effectively concealed my airbrush use, and now I often am asked how I achieve such realism, detail, and softness with acrylics.

My philosophy in painting is quite simple. “The end justifies the means.” In this day and age, we have many tools to aid in the creative process. Among these are cameras, computers, projectors, etc. All of these tools can be useful in facilitating the process, but what is most important is the end result – creating a great painting that is uniquely yours inspired from within.

Most of my painting is done with brushes. Approximately five percent utilizes the airbrush. Nature is comprised of many textures, most of which are best rendered with a brush. Where I find the airbrush most useful is for underpainting and glazing. I lay in all of my shapes and forms with a brush and ultimately refine them with the airbrush. I will blend brush strokes, darken shadows, glaze in color, etc. Once the form has the correct color and value I will render the detail on top, usually with a brush. After this stage I may make further adjustments by lightly glazing with the airbrush. This type of use is virtually impossible to detect and helps immensely to speed up the painting process.

I also use the airbrush to render smooth blends in skies, water, and snow. It is great for creating mist and breath coming from an animal’s mouth. I also use a brush when painting these elements. Dry brushing can create similar effects and is great to use in combination with the airbrush. It helps to keep your painting from having a too-soft, over-rendered airbrush look.

One of the aspects of airbrushing I like the least is making a mask. I try to avoid doing so but inevitably end up having to. On occasion I will use liquid watercolor mask. Its downfall is it can be used only once. My preference is a thin sheet of acetate with a light coat of spray adhesive on one side. I cut partially through the film, being careful not to cut into my painting. I then remove it and bend the area until the film separates. The advantage of this type of mask is it can be reused and you also end up with two masks – one for the area inside and one for the area outside of the mask.

For me the airbrush is just another tool for applying paint. The majority of acrylic and opaque watercolor painters I know use one. It is not a magic wand that will transform a bad painting into a good one. As with all painting tools, it is only as good as the talent behind it.

I always say being an artist is a journey with no ultimate destination except to improve. It is crucial to challenge yourself, take risks, and step outside the proverbial box. I hope you all have a pleasant journey.

You can see more of my work on my website – www.danielsmithwildlife.com.

Written by Daniel Smith and reprinted with permission of ARTtalk.com and Iwata-Medea Co.

Airbrushing? The very sound of that word throws many hobbyists into cardiac arrest. I have heard people say “I could never learn to use an airbrush” or “An airbrush is too expensive, so I just use spray cans.” Well, I am here to tell you that anyone can use an airbrush and it is not as expensive as one might think. Airbrushes are extremely useful tools and greatly enhance the finish of models.

As a model railroader and professional model builder, I have used airbrushes for about 25 years, in all kinds of situations. My first set-up was on my open patio. I had to paint in the spring/summertime and could not paint on windy days. I did custom painting for hire with this set-up for five years and obtained very good results. In my present situation, I have a professional paint booth. This is very convenient and allows year-round painting with the airbrushes hooked up at all times.

I have people asking me all the time “What type of airbrush should I buy for model painting?” There are many types and styles of airbrushes and you really want one that you will be comfortable using. There are generally four types of airbrushes as follows:

• External Mix-Single Action
• External Mix-Double Action
• Internal Mix-Single Action
• Internal Mix-Double Action

External Mix – paint and air mixture is performed outside the airbrush body.

Internal Mix – paint and air mixture is performed inside the airbrush body.

Single Action -The airbrush trigger controls only airflow.

Double Action -The airbrush trigger controls both airflow and paint flow.

I personally use both an external mix-single action and an internal mix-single action for the majority of my model painting. These airbrushes allow you to preset the paint flow and then just spray. You will find that if you paint a lot, as I do, the single action does not fatigue your trigger finger as readily as a double action. I also use an internal mix-double action for most of my weathering effects. Once learned, a double action airbrush will give you very fine control to do very realistic weathering effects. Internal mix airbrushes tend to atomize the paint more sufficiently, which I have found gives a little smoother finish. However, once learned, I think that you can get great results from any of the above-mentioned airbrushes. External mix is a little easier to clean than an internal mix.

I have used many different brands of airbrushes, and I am presently using the Iwata Eclipse series. I have a HP-SA Single Action and a HP-CS Gravity Feed-Double Action. The HP-SA I use for general painting and the HP-CS I use for weathering effects. I also like the Paasche H series airbrush for general painting. I have found these to be the most well balanced airbrushes with the paint cup/jar attached. The better balance an airbrush has, the better results you will get. You don’t want to be fighting your equipment. I also like the fact that these airbrushes are the easiest to clean. And cleaning your airbrush is extremely important to insure that it last for years.

The Iwata airbrushes have a unique feature, which I really like. The needle does not protrude from the front of the nozzle. So, if you bump the front of the brush or drop the brush as I too frequently do, the needle is protected from damage. It is very important that the needle remains straight and centered in the nozzle of the airbrush.

My intention with this series is to give information on what works for me and to, hopefully, help you avoid some of the pitfalls that I have experienced. I intend to discuss airbrush equipment, paints, mixing, cleaning, weathering and any other items that come to mind that pertain to airbrushing model railroad equipment. The techniques and equipment I use are not exclusive to model railroading, though. If you have specific questions or ideas for something you would like to see in this series, please feel free to drop me a note. I am always happy to discuss this hobby of ours. Until next time!

Written by Lee A. Yeager and reprinted with permission of ARTtalk.com and Iwata-Medea Co.